Antique art tile made by The Hamilton Tile Works of Hamilton,Ohio.In Victorian times,ceramic
tiles were typically 1/2″ in thickness.This tile measures 3″ x 3″ x 1/2″ thick.Not marked on the back,but I’m certain it’s Hamilton. This is a hamilton glaze combo and back style and I have fireplace surround tiles that are of the same glaze.. Stylized sunflower or ? in a green,blue and creme glaze. This was a fireplace hearth(the tiled floor in front of the firebox) tile and as such,subject to wear.A couple of edge fleabites and some chips and wear/abrasion on the raised rim of the center circle. Some stubborn residual mortar. While we’re at it,a word on mortar: Most antique tiles were set in a sandy mortar mix that comes off readily with water and a popsical stick. Many fireplace tiles were set in plaster of paris,as plaster sets up fast and there is no water involved at a fireplace-unless your knickers burst into flames………Some tiles were set in hard mortar-like this one,and the cement is tough to get off,sometimes requiring a grinder. Still shows pretty well and a tough design to find.
A FEW THINGS OF NOTE: 1) Size:”standard”wall tile sizes,established in the 1800’s, are still used today.Most wall tile today is 1/4″ nominal in thickness.Up until the 1920’s,it was 1/2″,but that was a very loose measurement,as some would be a little less or a little more. I believe the reason for the extra thickness in Victorian times was to prevent tiles from “cupping” or warping while cooling.The Low Tile Works of Chelsea was able to produce much thinner tiles than the other makers of the day.The obvious benefits were less clay and more tiles in a box and on the horse and wagon or train,thus less shipping costs.Standard sizes were/are 1 x 4 ,1 x 6, 1-1/2 x 3, 1-1/2 x 6, 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 , 2-1/8 x 2-1/8 ,2-1/8 x 4-1/4 , 2-1/8 x 6 , 3×3 , 3×6 , 4-1/4 x 4-1/4 , 4-1/4 x6 , 6×6. Triangles were 2-1/8 x 2-1/8 x 3, 3 x3 x 4-1/4 and 4-1/4 x 4-1/4 x 6. There were some other sizes that were not often used. When dealing with antique tile,please keep in mind that these measurements do vary slightly,even from the same lot/installation. Variations in thickness did not matter then,as all tiles were set individually in a thick bed of “mud” (cement) and adjusted accordingly. Today,using mastic and thinset mortar,consistant tile thickness is important. 2) CONDITION: When I use terms such as”excellent” ,”very good”,etc., I am merely using an adjective and not subscribing to a set of grading terms used by some. There are well established grading procedures and terminology for many collectibles such as coins and comic books. With antique tile,I prefer to use my own terms,combined with good photos and pointing out what defects may be on the tile. I believe that when you go through one of my auctions,you have a clear picture of what to expect to receive in the mail. So,I will stick with what I’ve been doing,because it seems to be working. I rarely get returns,but don’t be shy if there’s a problem. And don’t be shy in asking questions if my descriptions and photos don’t give you all the info that you need. 3) SHIPPING: I have many repeat/regular buyers. I am glad to hold on to your tiles until my next round of auctions or 3 rounds of auctions.It saves me time in packing/shipping and it saves you money. And,it saves the planet! With some bidders who live on the west coast, instead of 3 packages for $8 each,it may be one package for $11. I have done this for years with certain buyers,so let me know if you want me to hold your tiles until a later point. Payment should be made from auction to auction to avoid website from sending out all those annoying”pay for your item” emails and “have you had a problem being paid for this item notices”. 4) AGE: Virtually all of the tiles I sell are from the 1870’s- 1920’s.I do not own catalogs or reference books and really,not much details are there,anyhow. With some tiles,the age is obvious,as the Company may have been in business from 1884-1895. With others,it may be 1895 or 1915. Many Low Tile Works tiles have an 1881 or 1884 patent date on the back.That doesn’t mean they were produced then. Most tiles that I describe as “gothic” are ,indeed from the earlier 1870’s- 1880’s period. 5)Projects? If doing/planning a project,drop me a line if you’re looking for anything in particular or need installation assistance.I have done many installations using antique tile,new tile or a combination of the two. 6) EXPERTISE: I would recommend Karlson’s book on American Art Tiles. The most text that you’ll find on any manufacturer is about 2 pages,but it is a good book nonetheless and has lots of great photos.Most of my knowledge comes from having bought/sold/salvaged thousands of tiles over the past 85 years.Yup,I’m 107 and still going strong………7) PHOTOS: The photos attached to the auction is the actual tile you will receive. Rarely will I re-use a photo.
I will be listing many American art tiles from
1880-1910’s. Many are rarely seen patterns-a good opportunity to “fill in the blanks” in your collection. These are glazed,relief tiles and crazing is an inherent(And desirable,in my eyes)quality after over 100 years of life. All of these tiles have been salvaged from original installations in fireplaces,vestibules and bathrooms. Please note that white marks are flask/reflection unless noted as imperfections. I’m listing tiles mostly from the south NJ/Philly area and the Ohio River basin. This
is where most of the American tiles were produced over 100 years ago.If you are
looking for anything in particular,drop me a line. I have thousands of
decorative and field tiles and might have what you need.I ship small tiles 2day
first class to keep shipping costs down and I’ll combine shipping costs on
multiple auction wins/buys. I charge a maximum of $10.95 for shipping,regardless
of the number of auctions won. All auctions are no reserve with a modest
starting bid.Happy hunting!
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